Could You Be Deep Conditioning Your Natural Hair Too Long?

Hello Loves:

Well today I returned to work after a 2 month break. I am a teacher and although I love what I do, I love blogging even more. Not to worry, I WILL manage some how some way to juggle both so I am not going anywhere. I may post a little later than but I will still post. I just wanted you all to know what was going on with me because even though I only see pictures of some and many I have never seen I feel a connection with each and every one of you and I hope that you feel the same.

Today I wanted to discuss a common misnomer in the natural hair community. “Overnight conditioning” Many naturals feel that the longer you condition the better it will be for your hair but this is not the case. I ran across this article by The Natural Haven:

Deep Conditioning: Effect of Time and Temperature/Heat

Increasing the time you leave conditioner on hair allows more of it to adsorb with a maximum adsorption at 20- 30 minutes.

When conditioner is heated to 35°C, at 10 minutes there is slightly more than 5% on hair and at 30 minutes there is slightly more than 10%. Therefore temperature increases adsorption. The rule however remains the same in terms of no further conditioner sticking to the surface after 30 minutes.

 

After reading this article I realized that leaving conditioner on beyond 30 mins wasn’t going to give me healthier hair or improve absorption. In fact it was more damaging to my hair in doing so:

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Why?

  • long conditioning time causes a change in the keratin that results in softening and weakening so don’t deep condition overnight or for hours on end. The obvious exception to this rule is treatments like henna, that require hours to take to the hair.
  • But for your everyday run-of-the-mill deep conditioner, it should begin to work instantly, and reach maximum capacity at around the 20 or 30 minute mark. If your deep conditioner doesn’t work after 30 minutes, it’s time to ditch it for one that’s more effective.

So how should you use deep conditioner?

DON’T…

  • Don’t use your deep conditioner to co-wash or as a leave-in conditioner. Deep conditioners are specially formulated to be effective at what they do which is to provide intense conditioning to the hair. Deep conditioners tend to contain higher concentrations of cationic surfactants (their primary function is to stick to the hair), and will likely lead to even more buildup if used as a co-wash or leave-in.
  • Remember that conditioners have a shelf life so you may want to store them in the fridge.
  • Don’t be fooled by the miracle conditioners that promise full bouncy curls after one application. Most deep conditioners have the same base ingredients and when looking at the label of your conditioner focus only on the first 6 ingredients because this is where the true benefits will be listed.

How long do you deep condition your hair?

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What’s The Most Important Thing Most Curlies Forget To Do?

Hello Curlies:

Today I had an epiphany as I was trying to style my naturally curly hair. I noticed that my curls seemed limp

image courtesy of YouTuber Tootsie Time

image courtesy of YouTuber Tootsie Time

and almost fragile which was out of the norm for my hair. I realized that the only way I could identify a problem with my hair was because I have learned my hair and I know what it’s saying to me. When you first go natural you spend months maybe years trying to learn your hair, its texture, and what products your hair responds to best. There are no one size fits all in natural hair. What works for me may not work for you so this is a journey you will have to walk and experience solo. Of course we take and make suggestions which is fine, but don’t hang your hat on others recommendations unless you are 100% sure it is working for your curls.

The fact that my hair seemed limp let me know that I need to do a protein treatment to strengthen my hair bonds. I deep condition my hair weekly with a good deep conditioner and sit under a hooded dryer but sometimes your hair needs more and you have to listen to it.

Reasons your hair may need some extra TLC

  • your hair is color treated with peroxide or henna

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  • Sometimes our hair’s lack luster is due to using a flatiron or a protective style gone wrong

    image courtesy of blackgirllonghairdontcare

    image courtesy of blackgirllonghairdontcare

  • the environment and change in elements leaves your hair feeling and looking dry like tumbleweeds. I live in Georgia and we are experiencing high humidity which makes the temp feel like it is in the triple digits so my hair needs a lot more moisture because the sun is basically sucking all of the natural oils out of it.

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  • water conditions- sometimes hard water can be harsh on natural hair by leaving iron deposits so a clarifying rinse may be in order.

What are the benefits of protein treatments?

Hair is made up of over 90 percent of the protein best known as keratin. When our hair gets damaged by normal weathering, chemical treatments, sun exposure, pollution, washing, drying, combing, and styling heat use, it can be only temporarily mended by protein. A protein treatment works by filling in gaps present on your hair strand and forming a temporary bond. In order for a protein treatment to be effective it must contain hydrolyzed proteins, which just means the size of the protein must be small enough to attach to the hair shaft. Because the mending of your hair is only temporary, you can’t do just one protein treatment a year. Your hair will thrive if you regularly incorporate protein treatments in your hair regimen. I suggest anywhere from 1-6 weeks depending on the condition of your hair and the type of protein treatment you are using. There are many types of protein treatments and the kind you need is based on the condition of your hair.

So in a nutshell if you are natural then you need to incorporate a protein treatment into your natural hair care regimen!

Do you incorporate protein treatments in your regimen? Which are your favorites?

Could Texlaxing Be Your Answer To The Natural Hair Woos?

Hello Curlies,

I came across a video by You Tuber Amber Renae where she talked about “texlaxing.” This was the first time ever hearing the term so I decided to do some research and find out exactly what it meant. I know all about relaxers or (creamy crack) and I’ve heard of texturizing so I came to the assumption that texlaxing must be less evasive than a relaxer but it still requires chemicals?

According to bellanaija.com, Texlaxing is a process whereby a relaxer is used to loosen the texture of hair without making it straight like relaxed hair. This means your hair is under-processed. For example, if you usually sit for 40 minutes with a relaxer in your hair, when you texlax that time reduces to about 20 minutes for the entire process, from start to finish.

The choice to go natural is a tough decision and takes serious patience if you choose to transition as opposed to the big chop. Studies show that 2/3 of black women were natural in 2014 and that number continues to grow at a rapid pace. Being natural has become a sisterhood. We see each other in the parking lot of Target and we give a smile or a nod. We are bonded by a conscious choice and a boatload of natural hair products. Go to the store when there is a sale on natural hair products and you will think you stepped into an Angela Davis convention. Curls, kinky, coily, frizzy for days. So what would be the benefit of telaxing as opposed to just going natural? I had to know…Here are 3 reasons I found

1. Texlaxed hair is a great concept when transitioning because it gives you the best of both worlds: You still have the manageability of a relaxer that will loosen your curls while getting some of the texture of natural hair. Texlaxing can also be a way to ease into going natural without the frustration that many transitioners go through. Your hair is also more manageable if you have a more kinkier texture or tighter curl.

2. There is more versatility with texlaxed hair. If you enjoy wearing your hair straight, texlaxing makes it easier to straighten, and even gives you more volume to work with. This way you can practice your natural hairstyles in preparation for your natural hair; or easily revert to relaxed hair if you don’t want to continue to natural hair.

3. Texlaxed hair is less damaged of course because you have less processing time than if you were relaxing hair. Texlaxed hair only takes half the time it takes for a relaxer.

Some things to be aware of

If you are transitioning and still have relaxer in your hair but are now texlaxing keep in mind that you may have some breakage when the different textures converge on each other. If this is you I would strongly suggest that you do the following before attempting to texlax already relaxed hair:

  • Do a serious protein treatment prior to texlaxing. Aphogee has a good protein treatment but beware the smell if horrific but it will wash out.
  • I would recommend using a no lye relaxer to texlax because it would be less damaging which means less breakage and healthier looking hair.
  • Be sure to put conditioner or some sort of sealant on the relaxed hair before you texlax so that the relaxed hair doesn’t get overprocessed.
  • Remember you are only texlaxing the new growth not the already relaxed hair. You will have to use spiral rods or braid outs to make the relaxed ends blend with the texlaxed hair.
  • Whenever you use a relaxer always rinse with a neutralizing shampoo so your hairs ph levels return to normal.

So there you have it. If you are transitioning to natural or if you are fully natural but are unhappy with your curls, texlaxing may be another option for you as opposed to running back to the creamy crack.  Here is a video by You Tuber Michelle B where she shows you how she texlaxes her hair. I hope this was helpful.

Do you think you would ever texlax your hair? Let me know in the comments

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